We Ask a Derm: What are Peptides (And What Do They Do for Your Skin)?

There are a handful of skincare ingredients that you’ll find on the labels of many of your go-to products, including retinol, vitamin C and peptides. All three are favored by dermatologists for their anti-aging benefits, but up until recently, most of the buzz has been around the first two ingredients. So, what’s the big deal about peptides? We turned to a derm for the answers.

“Peptides are short chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins,” explains Dr. Claire Chang, a board-certified dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York. “There are several types of peptides used in skincare, including signaling peptides, enzyme-inhibitor peptides, carrier peptides and neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides—all of which serve different functions,” she adds. That said, depending on the type of peptide you use, they can have a variety of effects on your skin.

“Signal peptides stimulate new collagen and elastin growth, while enzyme-inhibitor peptides block the enzymes that break down collagen in the first place,” says Chang. “Then, there are carrier peptides, which deliver minerals to the skin and aid in wound healing and other enzymatic processes, whereas neutrotransmitter-inhibiting peptides may work similarly to Botox to reduce wrinkle formation.”

However, there is one benefit that all of them have in common: “Peptides have been shown to improve skin hydration when applied topically,” shares Chang.

Beyond wound-healing and anti-aging properties, “they have also been shown, in small studies, to reduce signs of aging and photodamage, including pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, as well as improve skin hydration,” Chang says.

Again, since there is a wide range of peptides available for use in skincare, “it’s important to note that some of them are more efficacious and have more scientific evidence than others,” she adds. (More on that below.)

“Peptides aren’t all created equal. There are different functions and permeabilities of peptides, so it’s important to know which kinds are being used in your skincare products,” explains Chang.

In general, the four listed above (signaling peptides, enzyme-inhibitor peptides, carrier peptides and neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides) are the most commonly used ones, but if you want to target specific concerns, Chang recommends consulting your board-certified dermatologist for a tailored regimen.

The good news is that peptides play well with other skincare ingredients. “They can be combined with many other ingredients to supplement their benefits. I generally recommend combining peptides with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides, as well as other anti-aging ingredients, like vitamin C and retinoids,” advises Chang.

As for those ingestible peptides you may have seen on your Instagram feed, you’re better off putting your money toward topical serums and creams instead. “I am yet to be convinced that oral supplementation of peptides has a direct effect on the skin. While small clinical studies have suggested oral intake of bioactive peptides may improve skin quality, larger studies are still needed at this time,” says Chang.

On that note, here are a few of our favorite peptide products to get you started.