What Does Collagen Do for Skin? A Dermatologist Explains

When it comes to skincare ingredients, there’s no shortage of options. From the mainstays like retinol, hyaluronic acid and ceramides to the dubious—salmon sperm, anyone?—there’s always something out there claiming to be the solution to whatever woe you’re facing. One I’ve seen lately making the rounds is collagen, and I started to wonder, what does collagen do for skin? It’s true that it makes up a large part of the human body…but would ingesting it or applying it as a cream actually help my body make more? To find out, I spoke with NYC-based dermatologist Dr. Ryan Turner. Here’s what you need to know before you scoop yourself another serving of collagen powder.

Dr. Ryan Turner is the founder of TRNR Skin and a board-certified, New York City-based dermatologist specializing in cosmetic dermatology, general dermatology, surgical dermatology and laser surgery. He is an Assistant Clinical Professor at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. Dr. Turner received his medical degree from Harvard Medical School and completed his dermatology residency at the Harvard Medical School affiliated hospitals.

Collagen comprises 20 to 30 percent of all proteins in living things and is a major component of your skin, bones, ligaments and cartilage. It comprises three amino acid chains, with the majority of your body’s collagen being Type 1. (There are 28 types, with the most common being types 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6.)

“Collagen fibers function like a scaffold, creating the structure and strength for everything from skin, muscle and bones to tendons, ligaments and other connective tissue,” Dr. Turner adds. “With skin specifically, collagen provides your skin with support and resilience—as it deteriorates with age as well as unprotected UV exposure and other bad habits, skin becomes weaker and sags, resulting in laxity, fine lines and wrinkles.”

As this protein is a major component of the human body, it does have essential functions, including providing the skin with smoothness and elasticity. Per this 2021 review that evaluated the data of over 1,000 participants, researchers found that hydrolyzed collagen specifically could be effective in addressing wrinkles, skin elasticity and hydration. Another review adds, “Many studies have shown that if collagen peptides (and other active compounds) are ingested they will travel throughout the body, including to sites where fibroblasts are present. This stimulates fibroblasts to produce more collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, thereby rejuvenating skin and other tissues. This mechanism is key to the successful production of collagen reported in clinical studies following long term supplement use and the consequent reported improvement in skin elasticity and hydration.”

There are plenty of dietary collagen supplements and skincare products on the market that you can incorporate into your daily routine. Topically, collagen can be an effective moisturizer, but isn’t necessarily encouraging your skin to increase production of the protein. Per Cedars Sinai, collagen supplements don’t hurt, but there’s not a ton of evidence as to how helpful they are.

Collagen is most often found in three main forms: hydrolyzed collagen, gelatin and raw collagen.

As Dr. Turner explains, “Collagen in its final form as a protein is not an effective addition to a topical skincare routine. The molecules are far too large to penetrate the stratum corneum (top layer of the skin) and reach the deeper layers of the tissue where they can make a difference to the skin quality. However, hydrolyzed collagen (collagen peptides) which are smaller fragments is worthy of some consideration.” He makes that caveat concerning the latter, however, that data is limited.

However, peptides—some of which make up collagen—can be absorbed by the skin. Dr. Turner says the following may help promote new collagen production and protect your existing collagen.

• Carrier Peptides (ex. copper peptides): “These work by carrying trace elements and minerals (in this case, copper) and delivering them to the skin. Copper peptides can help promote collagen and elastin production as well as support the cells that create new collagen (fibroblasts).”
• Signal Peptides: “Tell proteins where to go and what to do. A good example of this is Matrixyl, a lab-made signal peptide. This helps stimulate the production of not only collagen, but elastin (another protein essential to skin health) as well as hyaluronic acid.”
• Enzyme-Inhibitor Peptides: “Certain peptides can help inhibit collagenase or elastase, the enzymes that cause the breakdown of collagen and elastin in one’s skin.”

When picking skincare products with peptides, Dr. Turner recommends scanning for those that have been clinically studied and proven effective. Other ingredients he recommends are vitamin C, which protects against collagen-damaging free radicals and stimulates collagen production, and retinoids.

“Retinoids like OTC retinol and prescription tretinoin can promote the formation of new fibroblasts and stimulate cellular turnover, leading to firmer, smoother, more resilient-looking skin over time,” he says.

There are plenty of ways to consume collagen and the proteins that comprise it. Dr. Turner notes that bone broth is a common choice, though a 2019 study concluded that it’s probably not very effective on its own.

Other foods containing collagen include meat with lots of connective tissue (pot roast, brisket, chuck steak) and gelatin (made from boiling fish/animal bones, cartilage and skin and setting the liquid).

Additionally, the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health explains, foods like eggs, dairy, fish, poultry, vegetables and soy contain glycine, proline and hydroxyproline, which are the amino acids that make up collagen.

Shellfish, nuts, seeds, whole grains and vitamin C (berries, citrus, leafy greens, bell peppers, tomatoes) also contain zinc, an essential component of collagen production.

As previously mentioned, collagen supplements and ingredients don’t hurt, but there’s insufficient data to declare them incredibly effective. In the realm of skincare, Dr. Turner tells me, “While retinoids are the most effective and reliable anti-aging topical ingredient for supporting collagen production, they aren’t always well-tolerated. These collagen boosting products may be less prone to irritating or sensitizing the skin.”

Ultimately, while the body naturally produces this collagen, its ability to do so declines with age. “Skin’s ability to produce collagen declines at about a rate of 1 to 1.5 percent every year, and then, more staggeringly, some data shows that certain types of collagen may decline in a woman’s body by as much as 30 percent in the five years after menopause,” Dr. Turner tells me. Taking steps to support and preserve collagen while your skin is still producing it is important. From dietary supplements to skincare, there are plenty of ways to incorporate it. But the best thing you can do? Wear some sunscreen.