7 Things Stylists Are Begging You to Stop Doing If You Have Thin Hair

If you have the sort of hair that slips out of an already paltry ponytail at the slightest movement—or you can clearly see parts of your scalp (*raises hand*)—you likely have thin or thinning hair. Perhaps you’ve tried thickening hairstyles for thin hair, tried all the fine hair styling advice and even sprung for natural extensions—to no avail. Naturally, it feels distressing to see hair seemingly pile up everywhere around you…except on your scalp. So, I spoke to a handful of hairstylists for their take on the big mistakes made by people with thinning hair—and what to do instead.

• Sheila Guillermo is a hairstylist at NYC THE TEAM, a hair salon founded by colorist Michelle Hong. Guillermo has over a decade of experience in the industry and specializes in blowouts, keratin treatments, updos and bridal hairstyles.
• Danielle Priano is a celebrity hairstylist with decades of experience in the industry. She has worked on several brand campaigns and has an accessories collection, PSxDanielle. Her previous clients include Vanessa Hudgens, Hailey Bieber, Mariah Carey and Hailee Steinfield.
• Mandy B. is a certified trichologist and hair loss practitioner. She has over a decade of experience, starting out with cutting, styling and coloring hair, before specializing in scalp health. She offers virtual consultation and treatments through her own company, THairapy Wellness Center.

The two terms are thrown around interchangeably, but they refer to different things. As previously reported, fine hair comes down to the thickness of each hair strand, while thin hair is related to the density. You can have fine hair and experience thinning, but not all people with thinning hair have fine hair. Ahead, I’ll guide you through some common mistakes to avoid when styling and caring for both fine and thin hair.

“Long hair can drag down fine hair, making it look even thinner. Without layers or some form of texture, it might just hang limply,” says Mandy. Many hairstylists I’ve spoken with in the past have advised looking at photos of haircuts on models and celebrities who have a similar face shape (and hair type) to you. Bring these pictures in for reference so your stylist knows what you’re going for—and can redirect if needed.

That said, you don’t want to overdo the layers either. “Thin hair can be tricky. If you leave it too long without any layers, you won’t get any volume. But if you cut too many layers, it can feel like you have even less hair,” Guillermo explains. “There is a fine line with this type of hair. You want just enough layers to help create volume and movement,” she adds.

You’d think that going short would make thin hair less obvious, but Mandy cautions that “extremely short hairstyles like buzz cuts or super cropped styles can sometimes emphasize the thinness of the hair, as there's less hair to create any illusion of volume.” The sweet spot? A blunt or lightly textured bob or a longer pixie with volume on top. Priano agrees, adding that “asymmetrical cuts or shoulder length styles with layers are other great options for those with thin hair.”

Guillermo recommends steering clear of any oil-based products and silicones, as they can make your hair feel greasy and heavy. “Anything that says ‘moisturizing’ on the label can be good for dry ends but should be avoided on your scalp and roots,” she cautions.

More specifically, avoid heavy oils and butters, and look for lighter oils like argan oil or jojoba oil instead. Again, Mandy advises using them sparingly on the ends only.

Volume starts in the shower. “Choose clear or lightweight shampoos that are specifically labeled as volumizing. These products often contain ingredients like hydrolyzed proteins (e.g., silk, keratin) and panthenol, which can help strengthen fine hair and make it appear thicker,” Mandy shares. “They’re designed to lift and add body to your hair without adding excess weight.”

Once you’ve stepped out of the shower, Priano suggests using a lightweight leave-in conditioner that will add some proteins and offer heat protection (which is especially important if you use hot tools). Also, apply a root boosting spray or mousse to damp hair before blow drying to give it extra volume and texture, which will add more fullness throughout your strands.

Per Alvarez, thin hair doesn’t require a daily wash and doing so can actually dry it out. She recommends a cadence of two to three times per week. (You may need to trial and error to find the right wash schedule.)

My chief concern with this advice is that my hair looks oily if I don’t wash it every day. For that, the celebrity hairstylist recommends an oil-balancing serum like the Biolage Scalp Sync Oil Balancing Serum (below) applied on a clean scalp to prevent and absorb excess oil. “It prevents the oil from traveling down your hair strand allowing you to go longer between washes,” she says. The other thing you can use is dry shampoo to help absorb excess oil.

As someone with fine and thin hair, I can attest that I have split ends galore. Something that probably isn’t helping my case is the fact that I cut my hair maybe once a year. Alvarez tells me that as thin hair is more prone to breakage, regular haircuts can help it appear fuller and encourage growth.

When you search the internet for thin hair care tips, chances are you’ve run across the “Big Three,” AKA Minoxidil, Finasteride, and Ketoconazole (Nizoral) shampoo. I asked Camp to give a run down of what they are are who they’re for:

• Minoxidil (Rogaine): “This topical solution is widely used to stimulate hair growth. It’s available over-the-counter and works by increasing blood flow to the scalp, which can help rejuvenate hair follicles and promote thicker hair growth. It’s effective for both men and women, but consistent application is key as results may diminish if usage is stopped. Possible side effects are scalp irritation and dryness.” Camp recommends.
• Finasteride (Propecia): “This is an oral medication prescribed primarily for men that works by blocking the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a hormone that can shrink hair follicles and lead to hair loss in genetically predisposed individuals. It’s quite effective in preventing further hair loss and promoting regrowth, but it’s important to discuss potential side effects, such as sexual dysfunction, with a healthcare provider.”
• Ketoconazole (Nizoral) Shampoo: “Ketoconazole is an antifungal agent that also has anti-androgenic properties, meaning it can reduce DHT levels on the scalp when used topically. Nizoral shampoo, containing ketoconazole, is often used adjunctively to help control scalp conditions that may contribute to hair thinning, such as dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis.”

If you notice that your hair is thinning, the best thing to do is consult a trichologist about the best course of treatment. Sometimes, the provider will recommend what Camp calls “combination therapy”—using different treatments in conjunction with each other to achieve better results for your specific condition. Ultimately, she underlines that any hair growth treatment will require consistency and time to produce results. So, don’t freak out if “nothing” seems to be happening after a few weeks…give it more like 12.

While it’d be nice to have a straight answer, the most truthful one is that it depends. If your hair loss is caused by factors such as stress, nutrient deficiencies, pregnancy, diet changes or other life events, Alvarez says that it can regrow. On the other hand, if you’re experiencing male/female pattern baldness, it could be more permanent. (Don’t despair before you’ve seen a derm, though.)

When it comes to managing thinning hair, Alvarez advises her clients to take multivitamins and omega 3 supplements to boost nutrients for the scalp. (I’ve been taking and enjoying the Nordic Naturals Ultimate Omega soft gels.) She also recommends properly exfoliating and clarifying any build-up, noting, “Build up on the follicles is what prevents your hair from growing to its full potential.” Lastly, don’t hesitate to stimulate hair growth the old fashioned way: with a scalp scrub. This process can stimulate blood flow, thereby carrying more nutrients to the hair. 

• Colleen Camp is a certified trichologist and the Global Education Director at Keranique. Camp is an education authority in the hair loss community and sought-after expert regarding treatment and prevention. She is a leader in salon education with 30+ years of beauty industry experience.
• Cynthia Alvarez is a celebrity hairstylist who has worked with the likes of Alicia Keys, Ego Nwodim, Becky G, Shakira and Dascha Polanco. Alvarez specializes in extensions and wigs, as well as styling, cutting and braiding. Her work has been featured in Elle, Harper’s Bazaar and InStyle.