5 Things Stylists Are Begging You to Stop Doing If You Have Thin Hair

If you have the sort of hair that slips out of an already paltry ponytail at the slightest movement—or you can clearly see parts of your scalp—you likely have thin or thinning hair. We know this can be distressing, so we spoke to two hairstylists for their advice on everything to do (and by all measures avoid) if you have thin hair.

• Sheila Guillermo is a hairstylist at NYC THE TEAM, a hair salon founded by colorist Michelle Hong. Guillermo has over a decade of experience in the industry and specializes in blowouts, keratin treatments, updos and bridal hairstyles.
• Danielle Priano is a celebrity hairstylist with decades of experience in the industry. She has worked on several brand campaigns and has an accessories collection, PSxDanielle. Her previous clients include Vanessa Hudgens, Hailey Bieber, Mariah Carey and Hailee Steinfield.
• Mandy B is a certified trichologist and hair loss practitioner. She has over a decade of experience, starting out with cutting, styling and coloring hair, before specializing in scalp health. She offers virtual consultation and treatments through her own company, THairapy Wellness Center. 

The two terms are thrown around interchangeably, but they refer to different things. As previously reported, fine hair comes down to the thickness of each hair strand, while thin hair is related to the density. You can have fine hair and experience thinning, but not all people with thinning hair have fine hair. Ahead, we’ll guide you through some common mistakes to avoid when styling both fine and thin hair.

“Long hair can drag down fine hair, making it look even thinner. Without layers or some form of texture, it might just hang limply,” says Mandy.

That said, you don’t want to overdo the layers either. “Thin hair can be tricky. If you leave it too long without any layers, you won’t get any volume. But if you cut too many layers, it can feel like you have even less hair,” explains Guillermo. “There is a fine line with this type of hair. You want just enough layers to help create volume and movement,” she adds.

You’d think that going short would make thin hair less obvious, but Mandy cautions that “extremely short hairstyles like buzz cuts or super cropped styles can sometimes emphasize the thinness of the hair, as there's less hair to create any illusion of volume.” The sweet spot? A blunt or lightly textured bob or a longer pixie with volume on top. Priano agrees, adding that “asymmetrical cuts or shoulder length styles with layers are other great options for those with thin hair.”

Guillermo recommends steering clear of any oil-based products and silicones, as they can make your hair feel greasy and heavy. “Anything that says ‘moisturizing’ on the label can be good for dry ends but should be avoided on your scalp and roots,” she cautions.

More specifically, avoid heavy oils and butters, and look for lighter oils like argan oil or jojoba oil instead. Again, use them sparingly on the ends only, says Mandy B.

Volume starts in the shower. “Choose clear or lightweight shampoos that are specifically labeled as volumizing. These products often contain ingredients like hydrolyzed proteins (e.g., silk, keratin) and panthenol, which can help strengthen fine hair and make it appear thicker,” shares Mandy. “They’re designed to lift and add body to your hair without adding excess weight.”

Once you’ve stepped out of the shower, Priano suggests using a lightweight leave-in conditioner that will add some proteins and offer heat protection (which is especially important if you use hot tools). Also, apply a root boosting spray or mousse to damp hair before blow drying to give it extra volume and texture, which will add more fullness throughout your strands.