What You Should Know About Hair Oiling for Growth, According to Experts

It looks like #HairTok is at again. This time, the buzz is around hair oiling, an ancient practice derived from India, where locals apply hair oil from scalp to ends to improve the shine, moisture and elasticity of their strands. Some proponents of hair oiling also claim that it can stimulate hair growth, but is that actually true? I chatted with a panel of trichologists and scalp experts to get a full rundown on hair oiling, including its potential benefits and downsides, as well as some best practices for trying it out at home. 

• Kerry Yates is a trichologist and the founder of Colour Collective. She has over 20 years of experience in the beauty space. Yates has a bachelor’s degree in marketing cosmetics from Fashion Institute of Technology. She previously worked as a global director at Unilever and served as vice president at Revlon. 
• Dr. Jodi Logerfo is a family nurse practitioner at Orentreich Medical Group in New York. She has over a decade of experience and is certified in both family medicine and dermatology. She specializes in treating skin disorders and is a member of the Dermatology Nurses Association and National Academy of Dermatology Nurse Practitioners.
• Rooshy Roy is the Founder & CEO of AAVRANI, the Indian-inspired beauty brand that combines generational wisdom with cutting-edge science. She went to Indiana University and graduated with an MBA from Wharton University. Roy was also listed in 2020’s Forbes 30 Under 30 in the Retail & E-Commerce category for AAVRANI.
• Helen Reavey is a celebrity hairstylist, board-certified trichologist and founder of Act+Acre. She has experience working in runway, editorial and brand campaigns. Her previous clients include Bella Hadid, Harry Styles, Sarah Snook and Marisa Tomei.

Hair oiling is an Ayurvedic practice that originated in India and has recently become popularized in the United States. It involves massaging oil directly onto the scalp and spreading it evenly through the mid-length and ends to add moisture and shine, encourage hair growth and more. “Think about how you care for your skin—we cleanse, exfoliate and moisturize to achieve the best results. Your scalp needs to be cared for in the same way to foster a healthy environment for hair to grow. It’s a self-care ritual that I have been consistent about for years and is proven to stimulate hair growth and improve overall hair health,” shares Roy. 

What Are the Benefits of Hair Oiling?

According to our experts, there are plenty of benefits to hair oiling, which include:

• Added moisture. If you’re dealing with dryness, hair oiling restores moisture and provides a boost of extra hydration to the hair and scalp.
• Enhanced shine. While it nourishes the scalp, hair oiling also adds shine back to dull strands. “Hair oiling helps those often-neglected tips, making them look shinier while reducing the appearance of split ends,” says Dr. LoGerfo. 
• Reduced breakage. “Hair oiling improves hair suppleness, which in turns limits any brittleness or breakage,” says Yates. 
• Improved elasticity. The practice is done from root to tips, so it works to strengthen weakened strands and make hair more manageable overall. 

What Are the Downsides of Hair Oiling?

The biggest downside to hair oiling is greasiness, which only happens when you apply too much oil at once. As Reavey explains, “Over-oiling can weigh down the hair and cause it to look greasy. It can also potentially clog pores, which increases the chance of acne and irritation.” Another potential downside to consider is an allergic reaction. This is why they always recommend doing a patch test along your inner arm before applying hair oil directly onto your scalp.

Hair oiling is great for most hair types and textures. If you have straight or wavy hair, the practice can be a great way to add moisture to your mid-length and ends, whereas those with curly hair that’s prone to more dryness and breakage can use it all over to moisturize and strengthen their curls and coils. 

That said, hair oiling isn’t ideal for everyone. If you have an oily scalp and/or fine hair, the experts suggest sitting this one out, as the extra oils can weigh down your locks and clog the skin on your scalp, which can lead to dandruff or other conditions. “Malassezia (a fungus) is a common culprit behind dandruff and it feeds on the oils secreted by the scalp, so adding more oil to the scalp can increase the chance of an inflammatory response,” says Reavey.  

Can Hair Oiling Work for Growth and Hair Loss? 

According to the experts, hair oiling won’t necessarily help with hair loss. And currently, there’s not enough studies that prove that hair oiling causes new hair growth. However, the practice of massaging your scalp and giving your hair more moisture can be beneficial in other ways. “The act of massaging the scalp can help alleviate tightness and promote optimal scalp health,” says Yates. “Good scalp health is ideal for maintaining gorgeous locks.”

1. Create an oil blend. If you have straight or wavy hair, the experts recommend using a blend of lighter oils like grapeseed oil and jojoba oil, while those with curly or thick hair should mix together heavier oils like castor oil and rosemary oil. Tip: Heat up your mixture in the microwave for 1 to 2 minutes to enjoy a nice hot oil treatment. 
2. Divide hair into sections before applying a few drops of oil onto the scalp. 
3. Massage oil into the scalp for 15-30 minutes. “The best way to massage the scalp is to start along the hairline and make your way to the back of your neck. Be sure to focus on the crown area before tackling the mid-lengths and ends,” says Yates. “Follow the direction of the cuticle layer versus going against it. If you go against the cuticle, you’ll rough it up, which will make your hair look flat and lackluster. It can also expose the hair to more friction and damage.” 
4. Rinse the oil out thoroughly. Use a clarifying shampoo to clean out the oil and continue with the rest of your wash routine. 

The Best Oils for Hair Oiling

• Monoi oil: According to Yates, this oil helps tame frizz and repair split ends. “Its superpower is improving hair’s condition without weighing it down—plus, it smells incredible,” she adds.
• Tamanu oil: “It’s like a next-level argan oil, but without all the weight,” says Yates. This oil is known to improve hair condition, texture and shine. She also notes it’s a great oil to combine with other haircare products to define hair.
• Coconut oil: This classic oil has plenty of benefits, including detangling hair, preventing breakage and improving manageability. “It’s a great natural emollient and the perfect partner for hair oiling treatments,” adds Yates.
• Almond oil: “It can act as an emollient, which helps soften, smooth and moisturize dry hair. It has also been reported to increase the elasticity of hair and make it more flexible,” says Dr. LoGerfo.
• Castor oil: “Since it’s rich in ricinoleic acid (a fatty acid), it can act as an occlusive moisturizer and prevent (or decrease) water loss. Research claims it can also boost and support the hair follicle,” says Dr. LoGerfo. 
• Rosemary oil: “It can help stimulate hair follicles to support stronger, healthier hair,” says Roy.