What the Heck Is Hair Botox? I Asked a Trichologist and Dermatologic Surgeon

When it comes to beauty secrets, Botox (AKA botulinum toxin) is probably the one that’s most out in the open, aside from fillers. It’s most commonly used to smooth over wrinkles and fine lines, but does have other uses, like treating acne. Lately, though, the newest Botox buzzword has nothing to do with our faces, but rather…our hair. Hop on TikTok and you’ll be flooded with viral video after viral video of people raving about “hair botox.” As a beauty writer—and skeptical one, at that—I was curious. What did this entail, exactly? Well, good news for all your squeamish folks (for whom The Substance was probably torture). Hair botox doesn’t involve Botox at all, and there’s nary a needle in sight. Below, I spoke with two experts—a cosmetic surgeon and Botox specialist, as well as a trichologist—about what this entails, who it’s for and what to expect. 

• Dr. Howard Sobel, MD, is the clinical attending cosmetic dermatologic surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital and founder of Sobel Skin. For over 30 years, his private practice has specialized in dermatology, cosmetic surgery and aesthetic medicine, renowned for his expertise in Botox and fillers. 
• Gretchen Friese is Bosley MD’s certified trichologist and education authority, specializing in hair loss and hair thinning. Friese has over 25 years of experience in the industry, working in salons, stylist and consumer education. She holds a certification in trichology/hair loss from the United States Trichology Institute.  

Unlike the name suggests, hair botox doesn’t contain botulinum toxin or any other neuromodulators. Nothing is injected into your scalp. Rather, the focus is on your hair. 

“It 's really a cute title for a hair treatment that coats the hair shaft and conditions it with filler-like collagen and keratin to repair dry, frizzed and broken hair strands,” Dr. Sobel explains. Friese adds that this is a chemical-free treatment meant to repair damaged hair by filling in the gaps of the strands caused by damaged cuticles. In the many online videos I watched, there’s a big emphasis on moisture, hydration, frizz control and shine.

When looking at hair botox vs. deep conditioner, it can be difficult to tell the difference. Essentially, hair botox is just buzzy marketing, and Friese likens it to a type of deep conditioning method. Depending on the professionals and resources you consult, exactly what hair botox contains can vary, but what sets it apart from a “regular” deep conditioner is the emphasis on keratin and collagen as ingredients. Dr. Sobel and Friese also name vitamin B5, vitamin E, antioxidants and even caviar oil in the lineup. Meanwhile, typical conditioners may use more common ingredients like plant oils (coconut, argan, etc.) and glycerin.

There are two important distinctions to keep in mind when it comes to collagen and keratin. First, collagen can’t be absorbed by the hair or skin, so while it’s a great moisturizer, it needs to be applied fairly regularly for lasting effects. The second thing is the keratin conversation. 

Keratin is a protein found in our hair and is actually the main component that makes up your strands. When used as an ingredient in hair botox, it differs from a keratin treatment (also referred to as the Brazilian blowout). Hair botox treatments should be chemical free, Friese tells me. She also says that it’s good for all hair types—and the beauty fanatics raving about it online represent diverse textures and patterns. “Hair botox is safe for any type of hair and helps with breakage, split ends, lack of volume, adds shine and may help regrow hair.” 

Meanwhile, keratin treatments are geared towards those with wavy, thicker hair, and the end goal is smoothing, not hydration. Hair botox really focuses on moisture, in addition to frizz control and shine. The big thing to note about keratin treatments (not keratin the ingredient) is that they often contain formaldehyde—a carcinogen that can cause short-term side effects like nausea, coughing and skin irritation, according to the National Cancer Institute. 

Like keratin treatments, which relax the hair, many hair botox examples on TikTok (exhibits one, two and three) reported similar results, though some said it simply softened their curls. As Friese says this is to be expected, be prepared to potentially lose your waves for a while since the treatment can last for up to three months, she says—though the gals on TikTok say up to five. 

Hair botox is great for hydration, smoothing, shine and frizz control. Friese adds, “The benefit is healthier hair and sometimes hair growth. You may see your hair appear greasy for the first few days. Some people can experience itchiness if they are sensitive to the ingredients.”

Your salon may offer some variation of the treatment, even if it isn’t specifically billed as hair botox. If they have a deep-conditioning treatment, ask your stylist if it includes collagen and keratin as main ingredients, which distinguishes hair botox from regular conditioning. And, she advises doing your due diligence. If your service provider isn’t familiar with the treatment, find someone who is. 

Should you plan to do this at home, Friese advises looking for products with the following ingredients according to your hair needs:

• Breakage: keratin, biotin, ceramides, collagen
• Dry and Flyaway Hair: hyaluronic acid, polypeptides, shea butter, argan oil, coconut oil, aloe vera

TLDR; hair botox is a type of chemical-free deep conditioning treatment with a focus on keratin and collagen as its key ingredients. End results yield smooth, shiny, hydrated hair. If you have a curl pattern, expect it to be more relaxed. All hair types can benefit, but effects will be especially noticeable if you have dry, frizzy hair or strands that are prone to breakage.