What Is 3C Hair? Here's a Complete Guide to the Coily Hair Type

According to Dowdy, 3C hair is characterized by its tight, corkscrew curls and they are usually densely packed together. This creates a lot of volume, but the curl pattern is also more prone to dryness and frizz because the scalp's natural oils are harder to reach the ends.

This curl pattern is the tightest on the type 3 spectrum, compared to 3A and 3B, but less tightly curled than those in the type 4 category. It's also known for having a high curl definition and has quite a bit of shrinkage, since the curls typically tighten when they're dry.

Reid explains, "When compared to 3A and 3B curls, 3C curls are smaller in diameter with a corkscrew and coil-like formation and sizing closely to a pencil or straw. 3C curls are often dense and can be fine to coarse with the main characteristic of being the most voluminous and also having the most shrinkage (40%-60%) when compared to 3A (10 to30%)  and 3B (30 to 40%) curls."

He added, "Heavier styling creams and defining gels are used as the density and texture of 3C curls can retain the weight and moisture. 3C hair is more prone to frizz but still capable of having pristine definition under the right circumstances."

Since 3C curls are naturally dry, it's important to prioritize moisture in your regimen. So, the next time you shop for deep conditioners and styling products, look out for ingredients that will help hydrate those curls, like jojoba oil, mango butter and hyaluronic acid.

Dowdy says, "When shopping for products for 3C hair, look for key ingredients that help with moisture retention, definition, and overall health. Ingredients like glycerin and honey attract moisture to the hair. Natural oils, like coconut oil and olive oil, provide nourishment and moisture. Shea butter and mango butter offer deep hydration and help define curls."

Reid also recommends hydrating gels, foams and mouses to help tame and define your curls while styling. He explained, "Flexible gels with glycerin provide an ample hold and avoid flaking. Water-active gels can elongate 3C hair and address shrinkage. Foams and mousses are very hydrating and smoothing and can aid in defining 3C hair. Natural acidic ingredients like Green Tea, and Aloe help to smooth the 3C cuticle resulting in more definition and shine."

Sulfates (which are salts created when sulfuric acid reacts with another chemical) are commonly used in shampoos to help create a lather, but it's best to avoid them because they're harsh and can strip the curls of their natural oils, leading to scalp issues, dryness and frizz.

Dowdy adds, "Avoid products containing certain alcohols and non-water-soluble silicones, as these can dry out the hair and lead to buildup."

"Incorporate protective styles, such as braids, twists or buns, to shield your ends from environmental damage and reduce manipulation," says Dowdy. "Just be sure not to make styles too tight."

Reid adds, "Protective styles like braids can also allow for growth periods, but be mindful and gentle when taking down these styles and be sure to rehydrate and protect ends."

FYI, if you're not sure where to start and need some inspiration for protective styles, it's a great opportunity to experiment with new looks and hair trends. Consider mini twists, braided hairstyles or natural hair buns.

"Keeping a healthy scalp promotes healthy hair growth," says Dowdy. "Keep your scalp clean and consider using scalp treatments or oils to nourish it."

Some great ingredients that can boost your scalp's health are castor oil, which moisturizes and promotes hair growth, rosemary oil, which can stimulate the follicles, and peppermint oil, an anti-inflammatory that stimulates growth. In a previous interview with PureWow, Dr. Kobets said, "I often recommend buying a pre-blended oil that contains peppermint oil, as well as other essential oils that can aid in hair growth like rosemary oil, grapeseed oil and castor oil."

As for how often you should wash your hair, Dowdy recommends "every 7 to 10 days." She added, "This can vary depending on individual factors such as scalp health, product use, and lifestyle. It's essential to avoid over-washing, as this can strip the hair of its natural oils and lead to dryness."

Since 3C hair is prone to dryness and breakage, it helps to get regular trims, which can help keep the split ends at bay. Reid says, "Regular trims will prevent mechanical breakage and ample hydration locked in with conditioners and sealed with oils will allow the ends—in conjunction with trims—to maintain length as the hair grows."

Do keep in mind, however, that salons take different approaches when it comes to how they cut curly hair. According to Haxhari, cutting your curls when they're stretched is the best way to go.

She explained, “It’s best to cut hair wet, then check on the angles after the blowout to connect any miscellaneous pieces. Curls have different patterns, so you do have to check on the hair when wet and then again when dry.”