Emily in Paris is officially back (!) now that the first half of the fourth season of the Netflix show dropped on Aug. 15. Besides envying Emily's eccentric wardrobe, I, a former American in Paris myself, have also been more eager than ever to get back to the City of Light to experience all the historical sights and pains au chocolat it has to offer. If you feel the same, you've come to the right place. I have plenty of tips for a truly stylish Parisian getaway, and know just where to stay if you plan to hit the spots featured in the show—from Gabriel's restaurant (yes, you can really eat there, and it's fab) to the Jardin du Luxembourg (where Emily frequently goes for her runs). Plus, I pulled all of the best Airbnbs and hotels in each neighborhood, so all you have to worry about is what outfits to pack. Read on for the ultimate Paris travel guide from an Emily in Paris fan who lived in the city for nine months.
Where to Stay and Play for the Ultimate 'Emily in Paris' Vacation, According to a Former American in Paris
With tons of filming spots you can actually visit
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OK, I might be biased here having lived in the 6th myself, but in my opinion, there's no better place to stay in Paris than Saint Germain des Prés, though a strong case can be made for the entire 6th arrondissement. It's packed full of history (fun fact: the oldest café in Paris, Polidor, was actually just a few minutes' walk from an apartment I stayed in, and should not be missed), and is also home to the sprawling Jardin du Luxembourg I mentioned above that's perfect for setting up a picnic or reading a good book if you want to live like a Parisian for an afternoon.The Pont des Arts, a filming spot for several scenes, is perfect for a photo op if you want a great view of the Seine, while the Museé D'Orsay, where Camille and Gabriel once went on an artsy date, is also close by.
When you're hungry, you can head to Ralph's Restaurant in the courtyard of Ralph Lauren on Boulevard Saint-Germain, which is where Emily met with Judith Robertson from The American Friends of the Louvre—though I'd personally suggest checking out Les Deux Magots across the street, where writers like Ernest Hemingway were known to frequent. And when you need a sweet treat, don't miss Debauve et Gallais, a French chocolatier that created chocolate for Marie Antoinette herself. (P.S. You can still buy the pistoles she used to make medicine taste better, which I can personally confirm are absolutely delicious.)
Where to stay:
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When it comes to Emily in Paris, you'll find tons of filming spots in the 5th arrondisement, including Terra Nera, the real-life Italian restaurant that serves as the scene for Gabriel's L'Espirit de Gigi (or Les Deux Compares in seasons one and two)—and I can totally vouch for the tasty pasta. Next door to this restaurant is Boulangerie Modern, where Emily purchased her very first pain au chocolat in season one. You might also want to stop by Bombardier if you're #TeamAlfie—it's the English-style pub the pair grabbed a drink at before French class, which frequently shows sports events and offers authentic British food. As for one spot that hasn't been featured in the show (yet), Shakespeare and Co., situated across the river from Notre Dame, is definitely worth a stop both for the wide selection of books (in English) and the tasty and the tasty café. It's also quite close to Fontaine Saint-Michel, where Mindy took up busking.
Where to stay:
3. Le Marais
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Camille, the epitome of "French cool girl," suggests Le Marais as a place to check out tons of cool spots, so I couldn't leave it off this list. If you're looking for a unique art experience, you'll want to snag tickets to Atelier des Lumières, where Emily, Camille and Gabrielle attended that magical Van Gogh exhibit. It's truly an immersive and fun way to spend an afternoon when you need a break from sipping wine by the Seine (I joke) at one of the many casual riverside bars. Le Marais is also filled with tons of French stores, and I'd suggest starting around Rue des Rosiers if you want to get some shopping in. Then when you're ready for a meal, head to Île Saint-Louis and grab a bite at Le Flore en L'lle, where Emily and Luc were seen in season one. You won't regret ordering the pasta, which comes with fresh tomatoes, basil and parmesan, and don't forget to grab a glass of champagne to go with it.
Where to stay:
4. La Madeleine
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I won't lie, if you decide to stay in Le Madeleine you're likely looking at a bit of a splurge, but that's because this neighborhood's home to some of the most luxurious spots in Paris. It's situated near the famed Rue de Rivoli and Rue Saint-Honoré, which feature practically every luxury fashion store imaginable, but is away from all the bustle. You'll also find the beautiful Jardin des Tuileries within walking distance. If you happen to be traveling around Christmastime, you'll see it transformed into a sprawling Christmas market that feels like a fairy tale. The Musée de l'Orangerie, which houses Monet's water lilies, is within the garden itself. Not to mention, the Louvre is at the other end, so you won't have to navigate the metro to check out even more iconic art—ahem, like the Mona Lisa.
Another garden spot nearby is the smaller (though definitely worth stopping at) rose-covered Jardin du Palais Royal, where Emily and Mindy meet for the first time. And if you want to treat yourself to a theater night, Palais Garnier, the gorgeous opera house where Emily saw Swan Lake, is close, too.