When it comes to chocolate cake, there is a gold standard: the Trunchbull’s 18-inch-wide, ganache-topped wonder from Matilda. It’s dense, fudgy—the stuff of wonders—at least as it was depicted in the 1996 film. Given how it’s endured as the pinnacle of chocolatey cake perfection for 26 years now, I wanted to know: Could a box mix ever come close to the storied confection?
In the name of science, I baked nearly two dozen cakes, going through roughly five dozen eggs and a half-gallon of vegetable oil, testing several popular chocolate cake mixes to uncover the best grocery stores had to offer.