We Ask a Derm: What Does Niacinamide Do?

If you're even the slightest bit interested in skincare, you've likely come across niacinamide (or vitamin B3, as it also goes by). The buzzy ingredient can be found in many serums and creams these days, so we asked Anar Mikailov, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of KP Away to give us the low down on what it does and how it works.

You can think of it as the Meryl Streep of skincare—as in, it has range. It can be used to treat a number of things including acne, enlarged pores, excess oil and inflammation. As Mikailov explains, “Niacinamide, or nicotinamide, is an amide form of Vitamin B3. It is a water-soluble vitamin that’s involved in cellular energy metabolism and DNA repair. When applied to your skin, niacinamide has unique properties that complement the sebaceous functions of your skin, which is critical for maintaining healthy moisture levels and barrier defense."

Although niacinamide has been used in skincare formulations for many years, it’s gained even more popularity recently. According to Mikailov, this is because it’s “a fantastic multi-tasker that not only improves fine lines and wrinkles, but also works on the surface by stabilizing the skin barrier function and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Niacinamide also has great anti-inflammatory properties, which helps improve acne, rosacea and atopic dermatitis.”

“Yes, niacinamide brightens your skin by inhibiting melanosome transfer. In some studies, it’s been shown to be only slightly less effective at skin brightening when compared to hydroquinone (the go-to lightening ingredient in many products). Niacinamide is much less irritating and more tolerable to most skin types as well,” says Mikailov. (Given its gentler nature, it’s important to note that the brightening effects of hydroquinone are usually noticeable after about a month of consistent use, but it can take up to two months when using niacinamide.)

• Reduces inflammation
• Can brighten skin
• Prevents acne
• Protects against sun damage
• Repairs skin barrier

“Some people experience mild irritation (i.e. mild swelling and itchiness) when using niacinamide at a concentration that’s greater than 4 percent, so you may want to start with a lower concentration if you have reactive skin,” advises Mikailov. “And if you typically use exfoliating ingredients, like AHAs, in your routine, scale back or avoid using the two together to reduce the chances of irritating your skin. Otherwise, there should be virtually no adverse effects.”

On the flip side, niacinamide works especially well when it’s paired with other brightening ingredients and antioxidants, like Vitamin C (which is why you often see products that include both in their formulations).