We’re Calling It: 2023 Will Be the Year of the Stainless Steel Pan

Ten years ago, our perfectly seasoned cast iron skillets were our pride and joy. Times changed, Instagram gave way to TikTok and suddenly a slew of direct-to-consumer brands emerged from the woodwork, convincing everyone that ceramic nonstick cookware was the be-all, end-all, “nontoxic” savior that would prevent societal collapse. But it’s 2023, and we’re sensing another shift. Our prediction? We’re on the cusp of a stainless steel renaissance, and we’re not mad about it.

Here’s why: We’ve been lucky enough to test our share of new cookware brands, from multifunctional nonstick to shiny, millennial-marketed ceramic (and even a few carbon steel skillets, too). But after a year or two of daily wear and tear, we’re left with a bunch of lackluster pots and pans and a desire for cookware that will last longer than the latest Internet food trend. As it turns out, the solution was right under our nose, in the form of those stainless skillets that have been hiding under the sink since our wedding registry went defunct five years ago.

Stainless steelcookware is made from, well, stainless steel—an alloy of iron composed of multiple metals, with at least 11 percent chromium. Unlike cast iron, it’s resistant to rusting, and unlike nonstick, it’s free from coatings. Sometimes you’ll see it marketed as “fully clad” or “triple ply,” which, as America’s Test Kitchen explains, basically means it’s constructed from a layer of aluminum sandwiched between two layers of stainless steel, and the aluminum extends all the way to the rims. (That’s a good thing for even heat conduction.)

Stainless steel is a material that’s extremely durable, conducts heat evenly and can handle high-heat cooking; the same can’t necessarily be said for nonstick pans. You can scrape at the surface with a metal utensil and not worry about scratches, you can crank the heat all the way up for a gorgeously seared steak and you can store it without worrying about chips or surface damage. All in all, it’s superior for browning and searing, making it a good choice for serious home cooks and meat lovers. Since it lacks a coating, it’s also great for anyone who is tough on their pots and pans, and you don’t have to be precious about cleaning it. Some cooks will tell you that stainless steel is not as beginner-friendly as other materials, because foods will stick without the right cooking technique…but we beg to differ. If you’re struggling with food sticking to a stainless pan, it’s probably because you’re not heating it properly (more on that in a sec).

• Start by placing your pan over medium to medium-high heat. Allow it to get hot for a minute or two.
• Drop or flick a small amount of water into the pan. If it sizzles and evaporates on contact, the pan isn’t ready. Wait another minute or so, then try again. The pan is ready when the water beads up like a marble and skates across the surface like mercury. (And if the water bursts into many tiny beads, it’s too hot. Let it cool down a bit before trying again.)

Voilà, your stainless steel pan is ready to use. Add your cooking oil, let it warm up until shimmering, then get cooking. And for visual learners, here’s a helpful demo on TikTok:

If you’re sold on stainless steel, don’t feel like you have to shell out a ton of cash to make the switch in your kitchen. Sure, you could buy an entire cookware set, but we’d recommend starting with one or two pieces so you can get a feel for the style and brand you like. A 10- to 12-inch frying pan (with a lid) is a versatile beginner piece, and a higher-sided saucier can be useful for making everything from sauces to risotto. Here are a few pans we recommend.

While nonstick and cast iron pans require some specific upkeep and cleaning practices, another beauty of stainless steel cookware is that there are no fancy cleaning products or precious methods required to maintain your pots and pans. While some manufacturers claim their products are dishwasher safe, we recommend hand-washing to maintain the integrity of the cookware. Beyond that, dish soap, water and a scrubby sponge will be your best friend. (And if you run into caked-on debris, we like using a mild abrasive like Barkeeper’s Friend to remove the tough stuff.)

_{Katherine Gillen is PureWow’s senior food editor. She’s a writer, recipe developer and food stylist with a degree in culinary arts and professional experience in New York City restaurants. She used to sling sugary desserts in a pastry kitchen, but now she’s an avid home cook and fanatic baker.}