I'm Nonbinary and Here Are 5 Rules of Shopping in the Men’s Section That Anyone Can Use

The first time I ventured into the men’s section with a discerning eye, I was a femme—a term used by lesbians who embody femininity in a non-heteronormative way. I mixed mini skirts and combat boots, extravagant eye makeup with bold blazers and chunky rings with delicate slip dresses. And at the time, I also thought I was a woman. Oh, how wrong I was…

Now at a ripe 27 years old, I’ve been out as nonbinary for three years and shop almost exclusively in the men’s section (with the exception of fun accessories). But I wasn’t always comfortable venturing into forbidden taboo territory—the land of the man, if you will.

I was about 22 when I really started to experiment with my style and presentation, slowly but surely adding more masculine pieces of clothing into my closet the past five years. So much so that nearly 99 percent of the things I’ve purchased or thrifted have come from the stores or sections marketed toward men or are worn in a masculine way. That being said, I’ve become quite the expert when navigating the men’s clothing stores both in person and online, which is why I’ve pulled together my five best tips for shopping in the men’s section no matter what kind of body you were born in.

Something to be aware of is that men’s clothes will fit differently than women’s clothing. Men’s shirts will typically be longer and wider than standard women’s shirts and men’s pants will often be longer in the leg, wider in the waist and sometimes will be smaller in the thighs. Figuring out the ratio of men’s measurements to your measurements in women’s clothing (per brand) will help you figure out how to find the equivalent sizing when you shop the men’s section.

It’s also worth noting that in addition to knowing your measurements, you’ll want to be aware of the general fit of men’s garments and how they’ll lay on your body. Typically, men’s garments will have a looser, boxier fit. Think: wider shoulders, thicker arms and biceps, baggier legs and slimmer thighs. Understanding how the clothes will lay on your body, as well as how to size up and down, will help you find your perfect fit when perusing the men’s section. For example, men’s inseam lengths will generally be longer than women’s, so you may notice that you’ll need to look for a shorter inseam length when shopping the men’s section.

Air Threads, a men’s made to measure shirt brand that utilizes various kinds of fabrics and styles to create customized looks, helps to break down the types of fits you may see out in the wild as you journey through the men’s section:

Shirt Fits/Styles

• Regular or Classic - A type of shirt silhouette that prioritizes comfortability. Typically has a looser fit to other styles, is great for those with a slightly larger build and made for ease of movement. Generally speaking, this type of shirt will have larger dimensions when it comes to chest, waist and sleeves.
• Slim, Extra Slim or Tailored - This silhouette is slimmer than a classic fit and made to create a sleeker and more tapered look. Though the word used for this fit is ‘slim,’ that doesn’t necessarily mean tight. This type of shirt’s build will follow the contours of a person’s body and typically have narrower sleeves and a more tapered waist. Oftentimes, those with a slim or athletic build will gravitate toward this type of shirt to create a polished look.
• Athletic - You might be familiar with an ‘athletic fit’ in women’s wear, but athletic in men’s wear is made for a different body type. Instead of shirts made for those with similar shoulder and hip measurements and even distribution of body weight, men’s athletic fits are created to be worn on V-shaped bodies. This type of shirt will accommodate wider shoulders and chest with more definition while maintaining the tapered waist and slimmer sleeves of a slim or tailored fit. Muscular folks tend to opt for this style of shirt.
• Big and tall - This style of shirt acts semi-equivalent to plus-size styles in women’s wear. These shirts are marketed toward those who may require extra fabric for larger bodies and/or taller frames.The aim of this style is to create a shirt that is both comfortable and proportionate to the wearer. Big and tall is a unique fit in that there are subcategories like classic, modern or slim fits. For example, you may opt for a big and tall slim-fit shirt that works for a larger frame, but also has a narrower waist and slimmer sleeves, all while using more fabric so that the tapered fit doesn’t sit too tightly on the body.

Pants

• Extra Slim - A pant fit that is typically quite narrow and slim through the seat/hip and thigh. Think of this as the ultra-skinny jean of men’s trousers.
• Slim - A slimmer pant fit that is narrower on the seat/hip and through to the thigh. This is more comparable to a regular skinny fit in women’s clothing, with an emphasis on the tapering of the leg.
• Straight - This pant fit, like the name suggests, goes straight down from the seat/hip to the thighs, without tapering.
• Classic - The classic fit of pants will be roomier in the seat/hip through to the thighs, possibly using more fabric than a straight fit. It has less definition than a straight-fit style.
• Relaxed - This is the baggiest of pant fits. The style prioritizes comfort. The relaxed fit is extra roomy from the seat/hip through the thighs.

Once you determine what kinds of shirt and pants silhouettes that you prefer, see how those kinds of fits will lay on your body. Will they be a bit too tapered? Too baggy? Extra long? That leads me to tip number three…

In addition to getting to know the fit of men’s clothes, you’ll want to be comfortable asking your tailor to adjust items to your measurements that don’t immediately fit. See what kinds of alterations that your tailor offers. Can they shorten leg lengths? Bring in the waist of a garment? Loosen the collar? Knowing what their capabilities will allow you to ask for the fit you want. I often have to get my pants’ waist taken in because I have larger thighs and often have to size up in men’s pants to ensure that they will fit that area of my body. Don’t be shy when inquiring about exactly what you want because ultimately, you are there to get your garments to fit just right.

If you’re interested in taking a little dip into the men’s section, I’ve listed some of my favorite retailers to shop that make the adjustment that much simpler. They’ve got easy to navigate sites, measurement charts and incredible styles to choose from. Plus, they cater to women as well, so you’ll be able to compare the clothing more easily.

• Dickies (for streetwear, casual clothing, workwear)
• Carhartt and Carhartt WIP (for workwear and street style)
• SuitShop (for custom fit suits in various fabrics and fits)
• The Black Tux (for suit and tux rentals as well as custom suits in various fabrics and fits)
• ASOS (a wide variety of clothing ranging from casual to formal and a large selection of slim fit items)