I Tested Merit Beauty’s First Fragrance for 72 Hours—Here’s How It Went

Retrospect is Merit’s take on a classic fragrance. Crafted to be the opposite of scents populating the current fragrance industry, it boasts vintage (and modern) notes of bergamot, pear, jasmine, violet, rose, vanilla and musk all coming together to become a complex, yet inviting fragrance. Down to the packaging, everything about it feels like a luxury experience. It comes in a traditional navy box, almost resembling ones that hold fine jewelry, and there’s a reason for it. Per the product description, the 1-ounce bottle is “inspired by modernist jewelry [and] designed to sit comfortably in the palm of your hand—a nod to the tradition of fragrance as a timeless accessory.” As I said before, this isn’t your typical Eau de Parfum, it’s actually an Eau de Extrait (and yes, there is a difference). When it comes to toilettes, parfums and extraits, it’s all about the fragrance concentration.

Toilettes have a fragrance concentration between 5 to 15 percent (with a staying power of 2 to 3 hours) and parfums have a concentration of 15 to 20 percent (4 to 5 hours). Extraits however, have the highest concentration out of the three, containing between 20 to 30 percent, and lasts around 8 to 12 hours. Retrospect claims to last *over* 12 hours and let me just say, as I’m writing this, I can still smell it lingering on my jacket after spraying it on the morning before. Do with that information what you will.

Now, let’s get into my thoughts on the fragrance. On Merit’s site, Retrospect is described as “a rich, nuanced scent that evolves throughout the day,” and they weren't lying. Upon my first sniff, those pear and bergamot notes came in bright and sharp with the soft notes of violet and jasmine revealing themselves as it began to dry—and the dry down is where it's really at. When it finally settles, you’re left with a powdery aroma of vanilla and musk that lingers on your person for hours. I’ve tried to find the right words to describe the true uniqueness of this fragrance for days now and still have come up short. Its elusiveness is almost reminiscent of the white mystery-flavored Airhead candy I ate as a kid, which I still, to this day, do not know the actual flavor of. Is this perfume a floral? Is it a musk? That’s for your nose to decide.

I found that this fragrance changes on my skin throughout the day. Most of the time, I get that sillage of vanilla and musk notes as I go about my daily routine and sometimes, I’ll get that hint of pear and bergamot reminding me that it’s still there. But what doesn’t change is the fragrance’s longevity. While I'm the type to spritz liberally during the day—no matter what the fragrance concentration is—I did none of that with Retrospect, because there was no reason to. As someone who’s tried their fair share of Chanel and Dior scents, the fragrance projection of this perfume rivals even the best high-end options—and I mean that.

Also, don’t let the given “old money” descriptor fool you. When I think of fragrances that fit that trend, notes of white flowers, patchouli and orange blossoms come to mind, but not in a good way. Retrospect certainly has a timeless and classic charm to it, but still feels like it could be worn by the modern woman. That’s what makes it so great.

Bottom Line

Overall, this is a solid perfume release from a beauty brand that’s never touched on the fragrance industry before, and for its price of $92, I think it's highly worth it. It’s become a permanent contender in my perfume rotation, and my next (personal) test will be to see how it layers with other fragrances. So, if you’ve had your eye on this fragrance, I suggest snagging it now because it launched right on time for the holiday season (and Sephora’s major savings event).

Fast Facts

• Top Notes: Bergamot, Pear, Ambrette, Aldehydes
• Heart Notes: Jasmine, Rose, Rosemary, Violet, Orris
• Bottom Notes: Vanilla, Musk, Moss