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Everything to do in St Thomas, St John and Water Island

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everything-to-do-in-st-thomas-st-john tryptic
Frenchman's Reef/Instagram: @Fishbafvi/Getty Images

Have you ever walked into the airport with your family, about to set off on a long-awaited family vacation to the Caribbean, when you realize with horror that your oldest son, who is now ten, is holding an expired passport from when he was five? Of course, you don’t blame them. I mean, you just booked the hotels, flights, transfers, boat trips, uncovered seemingly kid-friendly, yet cool restaurants and simply thought maybe everyone could be responsible for their own passports. But then you remember he’s ten and can’t drive to a passport office. So you head home and recalibrate on how to save the family vacation. 

If that hasn’t happened to you, amazing. If it has, I’m so sorry and welcome to the club. If you don’t want that to happen to you then read on because I have the greatest trick to getting the gang to the Caribbean without a passport. 

Here’s the trick: You’re going to go to St. Thomas, St. John and Water Island.  You will still be in US territories, but you’re going to feel like you’re in a foreign land. You’re going to drive on the left. You’re going to take water ferries. You’re going to encounter miles of preserved park land and walk straight from the beach into a snorkeler’s paradise. You’re going to drink pina coladas. And you’re never going to need your passport. 

Of course, travelers have been heading to the US Virgin Islands for years. The U.S. Virgin Islands consist of St. Croix, St. John, and St. Thomas (and a whole host of mini islands including Water Island that I’ll describe in detail below). The islands are volcanic in origin and their hilly interiors are surrounded by white sandy beaches. Here’s the best of the best across the area: 

everything-to-do-in-st-thomas-st-john: frenchman's reef beach area
Frenchman's Reef

Where to Stay: Frenchman’s Reef (St. Thomas)

Jutting out on a bluff above the ocean is the Frenchman’s Reef resort. A new Westin property that opened in 2023 and actually houses two hotels at the same property – the Westin Beach Resort and Morningstar Buoy Haus Beach Resort. The former is a proper Westin – three-hundred-plus generously-sized rooms and suites, a great indoor-outdoor spa, a pool overlooking the ocean; the latter is more intimate: just 94 rooms nestled in the sand.

Staying at the resort is akin to kicking off your sandals and your first walk in the sand. It’s just easy. Need a pickup from the airport? They’re on their way. Fancy a boat excursion? They not only have their own catamaran but it’s helmed by a group of sun-kissed kids that met each other in Hawaii and know all the good snorkel spots. Craving a massage? Head to the spa. Ask for Rebecca. Laugh about passport woes. There are several pools, cold plunges, restaurants, and even a market lest you forget sunscreen (again). 

The Best Restaurant in the USVI: Fish Bar (St. Thomas)

It’s probably surprising to hear that I’m going to tell you to leave the white sand beaches of St. Thomas and drive 30 minutes into the middle of the island, up and down windy road after windy road, to head to the USVI’s best restaurant. But seriously, you need to go to Fish Bar and have their passion fruit ceviche. The captain and deckhands of our catamaran swore we had to try it and we couldn’t believe our luck we did.

The restaurant feels like a treehouse tucked in the side of the island and people who know head early so they can watch the sun set over the island with a handcrafted daiquiri before diving into your baked oysters and nori seaweed wraps.

everything-to-do-in-st-thomas-st-john: a man paddle boarding in st thomas
John Duarte/Getty Images

What to do (Water Island):

After a few days on the main island of St. Thomas, expand your horizons, board a $7 water taxi and 6-minutes later arrive on the postage-stamp-size Water Island, where there are no cars and everyone toots around on golf carts (or bikes, or foot) and everyone waves to each other. The only market on the island opens some time in the morning (they aren’t sticklers on opening times) and sells wine, ice cream and aloe vera. There is one of the most glorious beaches I’ve stepped foot on located over the hill from the little water ferry dock with a tables-and-feet-in-sand restaurant serving up spicy fish tacos and cold beers. The beach is tucked away in a little cove often visited by traveling boats looking for calm waters for the day.

There is no hotel on the island but one family-owned and operated yellow Airbnb is an absolute gem; the house comes with its own pool and two wings in a small house with a wraparound porch and outdoor kitchen that competes with some of the best houses my family has rented and cemented this trip into a top three family vacation spot. Gigi and Betsy will stock the fridge for you, but if you ever tire of your outdoor kitchen (which is hard to do) you can walk up the hill to Heidi’s Honeymoon Grill for bingo and a fresh fish dinner.

Give yourself a few days as there are more than 20 flavors of shaved ice at the local shop, the Crossing, and it behooves you to give yourself a fighting chance to make your way through the menu.