8 Levain Bakery Cookies, Ranked by a Food Editor (and Cookie Connoisseur)

• What’s In It: semisweet vegan chocolate chips and walnuts in a cashew-based dough

Levain launched these plant-based, wheat-free gems in early 2023. The dough is drier and slightly mealy because of the gluten-free dough, but it’s a pretty solid substitute for folks who can’t eat dairy, eggs or wheat. They do seem less chocolatey than the O.G. though, and they’re visually less appealing.

• What’s In It: semisweet chocolate chips in dark chocolate dough

This cookie is not for the faint of heart. Made with extra dark French cocoa, it offers brownie-like fudginess and a deeply rich chocolate flavor that’s a touch bitter, creating a coffee-like finish that I adore. That said, it’s a bit one-note compared to others on the list. I wouldn’t mind a touch of salt, or even walnuts for a textural element.

• What’s In It: semisweetchocolate chips andred and white peppermint chips in dark chocolate dough

Available for the holiday season, this LTO cookie marries two powerhouse flavors for one epic dessert. The peppermint chips are a little sparse, but the cookie itself still has plenty of herbal freshness (I’m assuming from peppermint extract). While it’s delicious, the flavor is a touch overwhelming to the point where I’d recommend sharing it with a friend (or serving it with vanilla ice cream or ice-cold milk for a moment of respite). I can’t imagine finishing any of these cookies in one sitting, but somehow this one feels like a taller order.

• What’s In It: semisweet and dark chocolate chips

Allergic to nuts? This is the closest you can get to the famous chocolate walnut. There’s so much chocolate in these, and I deeply appreciate the slight bitterness and earthiness of the dark chips. The ratio of chocolate to dough makes for a gooey, melty, almost fudgy center, but if you aren’t a huge chocolate fan this likely won’t be your favorite style of chocolate chipper.

• What’s In It: semisweet chocolate chips, caramel chips and shredded coconut

This delight is giving souped-up macaroon. It’s positively packed with soft, tropical coconut and a modest amount of chocolate. Personally, I’d prefer it if they doubled down on the caramel (soooo brown sugary and candy-like!) and nixed the chocolate. Not that there isn’t enough caramel—the bottom of the cookie has visible, sticky pools of the stuff—I just wish it didn’t have to compete with the chocolate chips on my taste buds.

• What’s In It: peanut butter chips in dark chocolate dough

If you ask me, this is the prettiest cross-section of all the cookies; it’s sort of like edible animal print. This one is also arguably the most decadent. The peanut butter chips are sweet, salty and incredibly creamy. They offer some much-welcome vibrancy to the rich dark chocolate dough.

• What’s In It: semisweet chocolate chips, walnuts

This is what solidified Levain’s place in NYC cookie lore. I’ve had these cookies fresh from the store, shipped and reheated and baked from frozen, so allow me to be the first to say that they’re delicious in all forms. The center is dependably soft and molten, while the exterior is crunchy and golden brown. I wouldn’t mind if the chocolate was a touch bitterer, or if the dough was a little saltier (some flaky salt pressed into the warm top would probably make my brain explode), but there’s absolutely nothing wrong with this cookie.