What Is Microshading? According to a Brow Artist, It Can Give Your Brows a Softer, Powdery Look

Looking for a more permanent way to enhance your eyebrows but don’t want to commit to microblading? You might want to look into microshading, which Alixandria Capparelli, an expert brow artist says can be a softer alternative to microblading. We’ll explain the differences between the two popular techniques ahead.

Alixandria Capparelli is an expert brow artist and founder of Hairy Little Things, a salon that offers brow, lash and lip services in California. She has more than 13 years of experience, specializing in makeup and skincare. Her previous clients include Gwyneth Paltrow, Paris Hilton, Robin Roberts and Katharine McPhee.

Microshading is a semi-permanent makeup technique used to enhance the brows. Sometimes referred to as "powder brows" or "ombré brows,” microshading “uses a machine to apply pigment [into the superficial layers] of skin, creating a powdered effect that mimics the look of eyebrow makeup,” explains Capperelli. She adds that this technique is best for those who want a more natural, filled in look compared to the structured look of microblading.

The first difference between the two is that microshading utilizes a tattoo machine to create a soft powdery look and microblading typically involves a handheld device to create individual hair-like strokes. As such, microshading produces more of a soft, solid shadow on the eyebrows, whereas microblading has more of a textured, piece-y look to it.

Pros  

• Provides a soft powdery makeup look
• Gives eyebrows everyday definition
• Suitable for all skin types given the fact that it is done with a machine

Cons

• Healing can be more intense since it’s a full, solid tattoo on the brow
• Typically more scabbing and peeling
• Can see more color changes since the color is deposited slightly deeper into the dermis than microblading. (Capperelli notes: Because of this, it’s very important to find a highly experienced and light-handed artist.)

12 to 24 hours before your appointment, Capperelli says to avoid drinking anything with caffeine or alcohol in it. Also, in the days leading up to your appointment, she recommends taking a break from any exfoliating products, retinols or tretinoin. Lastly, if you’re getting any laser treatments, chemical peels or facials done, make sure to give yourself at least 14 days buffer time before getting your brows microshaded.

Each artist approaches microshading slightly differently, but typically, the client will fill out any medical and consent forms. Then, they will have numbing cream applied and let it set for around 20 to 30 minutes. After the numbing, your artist will pre-draw and map out the brow, making sure that you’re on the same page about the look, size, shape and thickness. After the pre-draw, your artist will custom mix a color, considering your desired results, natural brow color and the rest of your hair and features.

After all of these prep steps are completed, your microshading session will begin and takes anywhere between 1 to 2 hours, depending on your artist.

Right after the service, your artist should go over any aftercare instructions with you, which is fairly straightforward. “You want to make sure to keep your eyebrows dry for 7 to 10 days, and try to wash your face carefully with a washcloth for that first week,” says Capperelli.

“At our studio, we give clients eyebrow shields for when they wash their hair to protect their brows from the water,” she adds. “You also want to make sure there is no makeup, skincare, SPF or other products applied to the brows for the first 7-10 days, unless your artist wants you to apply a specific ointment to them during healing.

Her parting advice? Trust the process. “Healing can be weird and look different for everyone, so follow the aftercare instructions carefully and give your brows a full 14 days to heal and settle before making any assessments.”

There are really no side effects, but you want to make sure that you keep the brows clean and dry during healing. “A bit of scabbing is normal, but if your brows develop a yellow crust, reach out to your artist as this is usually a sign of infection,” advises Capperelli.

The only thing you will need to do after your brows have healed is make sure to apply SPF on them regularly. You also want to make sure that if you use any strong skincare ingredients, that you avoid the brows, as it can cause the pigments to fade quickly and potentially change color. 

If you have naturally lighter or sparser eyebrows and want a more permanent way to get fuller-looking arches, microshading can be a good option for you. As with any cosmetic procedure, I'd advise that you once you find a local studio and technician who provides microshading services, take a look through their Instagram or Yelp pages for photos of their work to make sure their aesthetic is aligned with yours.