7 Things You Should Stop Doing If You Have Oily Skin

Those with oily skin know it’s a constant battle to control the shine and corral the every new pimple that seems to crop up each week. It feels like you’ve tried it all: cleansers for sensitive skin, double cleansing with a cleansing balm, trying to “dry out” your skin by forgoing moisturizer—and nothing seems to be working. From your face washing routine to your makeup, below are seven things you should stop doing if you have oily skin, according to two dermatologists. (Spoiler: Sunscreen is *not* optional.)

• Dr. Ryan Turner is the founder of TRNR Skin and a board-certified, New York City-based dermatologist specializing in cosmetic dermatology, general dermatology, surgical dermatology and laser surgery. He is an Assistant Professor at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine and the former Director of Dermatologic and Laser Surgery at Montefiore Medical Center. Dr. Turner received his medical degree from Harvard Medical School.
• Dr. Tiffany Libby is a double board-certified dermatologist and skin cancer surgeon at Brown Dermatology based in Providence, Rhode Island, where she also serves as the director of Mohs Micrographic and dermatologic surgery. Dr. Libby completed cosmetic dermatology and micrographic surgery/dermatologic oncology fellowships after obtaining her medical degree from Rutgers Medical School.

While your dry-skin counterparts wouldn’t touch a lathering facial cleanser with a ten-foot pole, this formula is your BFF, with both dermatologists recommending gel or foam. “These formulations are best at cutting through excess oil—creamy or balm cleansers are meant to add more nourishment to the skin, which may not leave oily skin feeling clean enough,” Dr. Turner tells me. Dr. Libby adds that salicylic acid and niacinamide are great additions as the former will help dissolve excess oil, while the latter helps regulate oil production.

If you wear makeup or live in an area with high pollution (like a big city), Dr. Libby recommends double cleansing. ICYMI: Double-cleansing involves using an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based one, guaranteeing complete makeup removal.

Those with oily skin are probably thinking they have enough moisture to forgo any extra. In fact, wouldn’t slathering on a face cream only make things worse? Quite the contrary.

“Skipping moisturizer can actually worsen oiliness because when the skin lacks hydration, it may compensate by producing even more oil,” Dr. Libby says. When shopping, Dr. Turner recommends ingredients like ceramides or squalane, which can help repair the skin barrier and reduce blemish formation.

Sunscreen is essential, no matter your skin type. “Those with oily and especially acne-prone skin may believe that unprotected sun exposure can help ‘dry out’ their skin and reduce oil production and the formation of blemishes,” Dr. Turner notes. “While sun exposure may initially cause your skin to produce less oil (and therefore fewer blemishes as well), that dehydration can send your skin’s oil production into overdrive, resulting in more shine and more blemishes.”

Both dermatologists agree exfoliation—both physical and chemical—is useful, but don’t overdo it. “Over-exfoliating can damage and irritate the skin barrier,” Dr. Libby says. “It's better to exfoliate no more than a couple of times a week using mild, non-abrasive products.”

If you choose a physical exfoliant, tread cautiously: “[They] can be unnecessarily harsh on the skin,” Dr. Turner says. “For example, crushed seeds and shells, which have rough edges, can lead to inflammation and irritation disrupting the skin barrier.”

Meanwhile, chemical exfoliants include salicylic acid, which Dr. Libby recommends because of its lipophilic properties. This means that the acid is attracted to oil, allowing it to help dissolve the skin’s excess oil and unclog pores. You might also consider acids, such as glycolic and lactic acids, though Dr. Turner explains that these work more on the surface of the skin. If you want some extra credit, you can pair this all with niacinamide, which helps the skin balance oil production.

If you’re new to exfoliation, start by doing so once a week and increasing as necessary. (Dr. Libby says two to three times per week is a sweet spot.) Should you have over-exfoliated, Dr. Turner advises, “Discontinue the use of all of your skincare products, especially formulas with potent active ingredients, in favor of gentle, nourishing formulas with ceramides, squalane or hyaluronic acid until your skin barrier has recovered.”

“I see many people using coconut oil as a do-it-all product—it is often touted as a natural ‘miracle product’ that can be used for everything from cooking to moisturizing,” Dr. Turner tells me. “However, pure coconut oil can be rather comedogenic and can lead to pore congestion and breakouts, especially in skin that is prone to blemishes.”

Dr. Libby adds that some skin types may need a thicker or occlusive product that helps the skin retain moisture, so it’s best to test and monitor how you react. Frequent use of petrolatum-heavy products (slugging) can congest your pores over time. 

You might already know this (and are still doing it anyway). But the habit will cause makeup to build up and clog your pores. Hi, acne.

Coconut oil is a no, and so is mineral oil, which is a common ingredient in skincare and makeup. Dr. Libby says that lanolin and cocoa butter may be too occlusive for oily skin. Silicones (usually found in primers and makeup to create smooth textures) may also be comedogenic to some, especially if you’re in a hot or humid climate.

When I shop for makeup and skincare, I like running the ingredient lists through this handy database by esthetician Emme Diane, who specializes in treating adult acne. She also provides a list of acne-safe makeup if you don’t feel like trawling through every brand’s ingredients.

Mattifying makeup is a great tool to control excess shine and approved by both dermatologists. Of course, make sure to thoroughly wash away the makeup at the end of the day, and opt for oil-free and noncomedogenic formulas.