When sampling the perfume, I evaluated it on the PureWow100 scale out of 100 points, taking into consideration five qualities: longevity, universality (can many people wear it?), strength (how long does it last without reapplying?), popularity (what are people saying about it on social media?) and wearability (does it feel like something you can reach for often or only for special occasions?).
First things first, the packaging. At $375 for 2.5 ounces, Palatine out-prices Chanel No. 5 ($172 for 3.4 ounces), Miss Dior (priced the same as Chanel) and my own current signature scent, Diptyque’s Eau Rose ($230 for 2.5 ounces). If you’re asking top dollar, then the experience should match, and with Parfums de Marly, that starts with the unboxing, which has been by far the most precious out of any fragrance I’ve tried. Palatine comes in a beautiful purple box embossed in silver with the brand’s logo. Opened, it reveals the matching tonal glass bottle nestled in a velvet protective foam block, embellished with tassels and a rhinestone embedded into the weighty cap. It is, in short, as regal as one could expect.
As for the actual violet scent, I’ll admit that I was initially skeptical upon sampling it, as I typically go for fresh, fruity florals like my aforementioned Eau Rose, which, with the chamomile and artichoke notes, evokes lychee. But, I do have a soft spot for more “powdery” scents, if only because it brings back memories of stealing my mother’s decrepit bottle of Chanel No. 5 (she never wore it) in middle school and spraying it like a maniac. Even so, there is, for me, such as thing as *too* powdery, but I think that Palatine got it just right.
To see just how long the scent would last, I applied it once in the morning to my wrists, hair and neck. The initial spray yielded a sweet, mandarin note on my skin, but if you inhale the airborne particles, it does have that more “powdery” element. As it sits, the violet comes out a little bit more without overpowering. However, it’s not staid, the way some scents feel they belong on a vanity from the cover of a Sweet Valley High novel. Palatine makes me feel like I could cause some mischief.
By lunchtime, four hours later, I felt like it had firmly settled into the violet heart petal notes, with a hint of sweetness I chalked up to the vanilla. By 5:30 p.m. the perfume was still going strong, and was still quite noticeable on my wrists and in my hair. This is, impressively, also after I slathered lotion on top of my wrists. At this point, the musk was detectable but not too forward. I like Palatine most at the end of the day when it’s sweet but not cloy and the musk, vanilla and violet have completely melded, with a whisper of the floral bouquet to keep it bright. By nearly midnight, I still had it lingering gently—so perfect marks in terms of longevity.
I will caveat this with the observation that things seem to be mixed on social, in particular TikTok. Based on comments on viral videos, you either love it, want to love it or love to hate it, with many pointing out that YSL Libre ($165, 3.4oz) and Guerlain Insolence ($150, 2.5oz) have similar profiles. Ultimately, if you don’t like florals or powdery scents, you will hate this. If you love powdery florals, then you’ll probably like it.
