I’m a Trend Forecaster and I Predict Mermaid Braids Are Going to Be *the* Protective Style for Winter

When I decided to be Halle Bailey’s Ariel for Halloween last year, I wanted to go all out with my hair. Although she wore locs in the live action film The Little Mermaid, I found the next best thing which gave very much “Under the Sea” vibes—and it just so happens the style I chose will be a popular look this upcoming season. Meet Mermaid braids, a protective style I predict is going to be the most requested look for winter. To further my theory, I chatted with two hairstylists to learn more about the latest trend and how you can try it right now. 

• Maya Smith is a hairstylist and co-founder of The Doux, a haircare brand for natural hair. She has two decades of experience as a licensed cosmetologist and a salon owner. Aside from her brand, she has launched two salons that specialize in textured hair.
• T. Cooper is a celebrity hair and makeup artist, beauty expert and founder of Major Face. Known for her expertise in commercial, editorial and red carpet beauty, she has collaborated with top brands like Carol’s Daughter, Amika and Pacifica. Her clients include Megan Thee Stallion, Tiffany Haddish and Billy Porter.

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If you’re familiar with knotless braids, mermaid braids are not far from that technique. As Cooper explains, “Mermaid braids are a protective style that consist of full, flowing braids that incorporate a technique called ‘pick and drop,’ where loose extension hair is added into the braid for additional texture and volume. While the style is typically a combination of traditional braids with loose waves, some people may choose to wear their mermaid braids with straight extension hair. It all depends on the client’s preference.”

Mermaid braids often get mistaken for bohemian (boho) and goddess braids, but they’re actually quite different. “Mermaid braids are all about combining braids with soft, flowy hair, while boho braids focus more on smaller braids with accessories like beads and feathers for that bohemian feel,” explains Smith. Other differences include the technique and supplies. Cooper adds, “Mermaid braids are typically not braided all the way to the ends like Boho braids, which gives them a more luminous, flowing appearance. Another difference is that mermaid braids are often created using human hair for the loose sections, making them more versatile and durable.”

If you’re not an experienced braider, consider getting this style done at the salon. It’s helpful to come in with visuals of what exactly you want. As mentioned, mermaid braids can be altered in regards to length, color or even how wavy (or straight) you want the tendrils. I remember wanting a reddish blend and a waist-length look to mimic flowy hair like the Disney princess. FYI: This look can take four to six hours depending on the length and thickness of your braids, so be prepared to have your day blocked. 

For skilled braiders, gather your supplies—comb, gel, mousse, hair clips, wavy/curly braiding hair and regular braiding hair—and begin following these instructions: 

1. Wash your hair before drying and blowing out your strands. 
2. Use a rat tail comb to divide your hair into four equal sections. Start with parting your hair down the center before running the comb from ear to ear to create two sections on the top and bottom. 
3. Focus on one section at a time and clip any sections you’re not working with. Then, use your comb to divide the section into smaller, one-inch squares.
4. Apply a generous amount of gel to each small section before you begin braiding. Start incorporating a third of braiding hair (for added thickness) with your natural hair. Once you braid about an inch or so, add some of the wavy braiding hair into the mix. Wrap it around once before leaving it out and continuing with the initial braid. Every few inches continue feeding in about three to four wavy pieces. 
5. Repeat steps three and four until your entire head is complete. Finish off with mousse to prevent frizz and add shine to your new look.    

How Do You Maintain Mermaid Braids?

Mermaid braids can last six to eight weeks if treated with proper care, so I suggest investing in a haircare routine that keeps your scalp clean and your braids frizz-free. Similar to when I had French Curl Braids, I relied on a scalp rinse when washing my hair and a scalp serum to relieve the tension. Smith notes a lightweight oil or leave-in conditioner (like The Doux Fresh to Def Refresher Spray) is also great for hydrating the area in between washes. And if you’re dealing with tangled tendrils after a few weeks, Cooper recommends washing hair with a diluted shampoo (like Kinky Curly Come Clean) before gently detangling the loose hair extensions with a wide-toothed comb and styling them again using mousse, flexi rods or a curling iron.

Need some inspiration? Here are a few mermaid braid ideas I’ve been loving lately.