Whether you’re rocking box braids, a big braids hairstyle (like cornrows) or mini twists, protective styles will never go out of season. I know firsthand how much time, money and patience (so much patience) braids are to upkeep—but boy are the results are worth it. I recently wore French Curl Braids and loved them so much that I had to ask my braider how I could make them last longer. Along with her helpful wisdom, I reached out to three other natural hair experts to learn how to take care of braids. From cleansing the scalp to protecting your hair at night, here’s how you can keep your braids in good shape for longer.
How to Take Care of Braids, According to Natural Hair Experts
I got the tips you need
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Published Jul 16, 2024
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Meet the Natural Hair Experts
- Kendall Dorsey is a celebrity hairstylist and brand ambassador for Dark & Lovely. He has 15 years of experience in the haircare space, specializing in cutting, coloring and wig care. His clients include Yara Shahidi, Christina Aguilera and Rihanna.
- Davontae Washington is a celebrity hairstylist who specializes in wigs, hair extensions and natural hair. His work has been featured in numerous publications, red carpets and brand campaigns. His previous clients include Kim Kardashian, Victoria Monét, Ciara and Keke Palmer.
- Safiya Warner is a natural hair expert and a Wella stylist. She has over ten years of experience, specializing in protective styling like sew-ins and braids. Her work has been featured in various magazines, as well as Beyonce’s Black Is King visual film.
What to Do Before Braiding Your Hair
- Wash and condition your hair. If your braider doesn’t offer a wash, make sure you thoroughly wash your scalp and hair before your appointment. This crucial step can help remove any existing product build up and dirt.
- Divide hair into sections and detangle. Warner suggests detangling your hair to prevent knots and breakage. Use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb and gently work your way from ends to roots. “This will allow the wash service to go by smoothly and quickly. Not to mention, no pain!” she adds.
- Add styling products. Washington recommends a leave-in conditioner or lightweight hair oil to keep hair moisturized and manageable. Note: Don’t use too much product as your braider will most likely use braiding gel to achieve your look.
- Use a blow dryer or diffuser to dry hair. “You want to ensure that your hair is fully dry before starting the braiding process to avoid mildew and scalp issues,” says Washington. If you have wavy or curly hair, consider using a comb attachment to straighten your hair. Again, you want to make things easier for your braider.
Editor’s Note: These steps are usually more helpful if a) you’re braiding your own hair b) your stylist only offers braiding services. I found most braiding places offer a wash and dry, in which case, you won’t have to worry about prepping your hair beforehand. This will vary depending on the salon, so make sure to check with them before your appointment.
7 Tips for Maintaining Braids
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1. Moisturize Your Scalp As Often As Possible
“The most important thing to consider when wearing a protective style is maintaining the health of your scalp and adding moisture to your hair,” says Dorsey. For most styles (like box braids and cornrows), your scalp is more exposed than usual. As a result, it can be more prone to dryness, irritation and/or flakiness. Dorsey suggests hydrating the scalp and hair regularly using a leave-in conditioning spray, which adds and locks in moisture.
He also recommends adding a serum to soothe the scalp and ease any tension caused by dryness. If you want to go the DIY route, grab a spray bottle, fill it with water and add hydrating ingredients like castor oil, jojoba oil or tea tree oil to the mix. Once the concoction is mixed, spritz it evenly onto your scalp. Do this at least twice a week for best results.
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2. Wash Your Braids Frequently
Washington recommends using a clarifying shampoo, a gentle sulfate-free shampoo or a micellar water cleanser to remove impurities directly on the scalp. You can also dilute your shampoo by combining it with water in a spray bottle. Use one part shampoo (about 2 to 3 pumps) and two parts water (about 1/2 cup). Regardless of which option you choose, apply the product directly onto the scalp and delicately massage it in with your fingertips. Washington adds, “You want to massage the scalp without disturbing the braids too much.” Finally, rinse everything out. (Yes, it’s OK for the water to run through your braids). Follow the same steps with a lightweight conditioner.
After cleansing and conditioning, grab a microfiber hair towel and gently squeeze out any excess water. You can either air dry or use a blow dryer on the lowest setting to dry your braids. It’s important that your hair is completely dry because you don’t want to run the risk of having mildew form. (Still need a visual? Check out this step-by-step video.)
Wait, So You Can Wash Your Hair with Braids In?
It’s a total myth that you shouldn’t wash your hair when you have braids. Of course you can wash your braids without having to worry about ruining your style. In fact, it’s essential that you clean your scalp and braids frequently to avoid any product buildup, dryness and/or irritation.
How Often Should You Wash Your Braids?
The experts suggest washing your braids every 2 to 3 weeks to keep your scalp clean and healthy.
3. Use a Refresher Spray or Mousse to Manage Frizz
After a few weeks, your braids might start to get a bit frizzy. When this happens, Washington suggests using a refresher spray or a mousse. After carefully washing your hair, apply one of these products throughout your protective style to manage frizz and flyaways.
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4. Avoid Wearing Braids in Tight Hairstyles
I love how braids give you so many options. You can wear them in as many different styles as you want. One day, I’m wearing them down and the next, I can wrap them up into a ponytail or a natural bun style. However, you want to be strategic about how often you change things up. If your braids are constantly in tight looks (like high ponytails, buns, Dutch braids, etc.), they’re more at risk for frizz, breakage and weakening along the roots and edges. Now, I’m not saying you should forgo these braid hairstyles altogether; just cut back on how often you wear them to avoid any pulling and tearing. Trust me, your scalp (and delicate baby hairs) will thank you later.
5. Redo Your Edges (and Braids Along the Hairline)
If you have the time, the best way to take care of your braids is to redo your edges every four weeks. Wash the area with some shampoo and apply some coconut oil (or edge control) to keep the area moisturized. Aside from sprucing up your baby hairs, also consider retouching the braids along your hairline (depending on the style you’re rocking). This will give the illusion that you refreshed your whole look.
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6. Protect Your Braids at Night
As a beauty editor with a whole lot of curls, I can go through an entire spiel on why you should always protect your hair at night. But I’ll keep things short and sweet: If you don’t protect your hair at night, you’ll lose moisture and shine. The friction caused by tossing and turning can also cause frizz, breakage and dryness. This is why stylists suggest wrapping your hair up in a silk or satin headscarf (or bonnet). As Warner shares, “This will keep your hair neat and [cut back on] maintenance [later].” For added protection, you should consider using a silk pillowcase, too.
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7. Don’t Wear Your Braids For Too Long
Yes, braids are a style that can be worn for a long period of time. However, they shouldn’t be worn for too long.
How Long Should You Keep Your Braids?
The experts say you should wear protective styles for no more than four to six weeks. Why? Just like you schedule PTO to take a breather from work, your hair needs a break, too. The longer you keep your braids in, the more prone your hair becomes to breakage, knots and tangles. Yes, they are protective styles, but they are meant to be temporary.
How Long Should You Wait Between Braids?
Just take a week or two before you get a new style. “This break allows your scalp to recover, reduces tension on your hair and prevents damage,” adds Washington.
The Key Takeaways for How to Take Care of Braids
Stick to a regular wash routine that cleanses the scalp, while also using lightweight styling products to bring back nutrients and cut down on frizz. Also spend time protecting your braids by not putting them into tight hairstyles too often and always wrapping your hair up in a bonnet or silk scarf at night. Remember: You should treat your braids with care, love and lots of patience.
Frequently Asked Questions
What Are the Pros and Cons of Braiding Your Hair?
Pros
- Less daily styling
- Protects hair against daily manipulation
- Minimizes breakage and frizz
- Promotes healthy hair growth
- Offers more versatility in your hairstyles
Cons
- Can lead to tension headaches (depending on the style and your scalp sensitivity)
- Can cause breakage if braids are too tight
- May cause scalp irritation or hair loss (if not maintained or installed properly)
- Requires regular upkeep
- Certain types of braids can get in the way of products that are meant to cleanse and moisturize the scalp
How Do People Shower with Braids?
If you’re worried about getting your braids wet in the shower, simply cover them in a shower cap (even better if you can find one with a protective lining). And if you’re rocking a big braids hairstyle, believe it or not, they sell shower caps that specifically fit over these huge looks. I have one at home and it’s a godsend for protecting my hair.
What Shouldn’t You Do After Getting Braids?
- Wait to wash your hair. According to Washington, you should wait at least a week after getting your braids done to wash them. If you keep them moisturized and protect your style at night, I’m confident you can hold out on washing your fresh braids for that long.
- Refrain from pulling and tugging. Avoid relying solely on tight hairstyles as “The tension can cause hair loss, especially around the edges,” notes Warner. Also, pulling and tugging can lead to breakage and scalp irritation.
- Avoid using heavy products on your braids. “Heavy products can weigh down the braids and cause build up,” says Washington. Yes, you want to keep your scalp moisturized, but stick with lightweight products to get the job done.
Braids Care Kit
