Here’s How Hairstylists Cut Curly Hair, According to Experts

If you haven't done a nose dive into your curly hair type it's actually quite rewarding. In the last few years, I've learned that I have 3C, low porosity, fine curls. But nowadays, you can learn more about your locks right at home through a serious of easy tests. For example, to find out your porosity, you can do the float test. If a strand of your hair floats in the water, you have low porosity hair. But if it sinks to the bottle, you have high porosity hair. (BTW PureWow has a great quiz to make it easier to find out your hair type, too.)

But once you sit in the salon chair, your stylist can analyze and guide you to learning more about your curly hair. This consultation will help you find the right haircut for you. As Haxhari explains, “There are different hair textures, density levels and styles, so it’s important to understand the structure of the hair before you begin the haircut.”

Salons often recommend leaving your hair free from any additional products and/or heat tools before your appointment. This crucial step helps a stylist see how your curls really look. Clark believes maintaining curls in its natural state will “allow you to see how curls react and form, which can lead to a more accurate cut.” In my experience, I’ve learned my curl pattern is tighter in the front versus the back, so my stylist will focus on creating a desired shape that works best for me. If I used my diffuser or ample amount of styling cream before my salon appointment, my stylist would’ve never known I have frizzy, fine hair. Oh, and don’t get me started on shrinkage. 

To cut curly hair wet or dry—ah, it’s the age-old question. Personally, I’ve gotten my hair cut both ways, and I still manage to get a snazzy look out of it. But, according to the experts, it really boils down to the stylist/salon’s preference.You’ll find at Ouidad salon, they rely on the Carving and Slicing technique, which cuts wet curls at an angle to avoid a triangular-shape. As Haxhari explains, “It’s best to cut hair wet, then check on the angles after the blowout to connect any miscellaneous pieces. Curls have different patterns, so you do have to check on the hair when wet and then again when dry.” Meanwhile, other salons like Filament, use the DevaCurl dry cutting method to trim curls in their natural state. Regardless which one gets done, your hair should be damp or dry, but never soaking wet. Clark adds, “Wet curls shrink as they dry, so cutting them wet can lead to unexpected lengths afterwards.” Still, you don’t want to go in excited about your $300 dry cut only to learn it’s going to be damp-cut.

While this trimming technique may seem tedious, the results promise an even, defined finish. This cutting style focuses each individual curl to retain your natural shape, while identifying any damaged areas or split ends. My own stylist used this technique afterwards to find any hidden curls that were overlooked the first time around and I appreciated her dedication to detail. It made a difference on how my curls moved and grew overtime. “You can always take more hair off if necessary, but you can’t put it back once it’s cut. This technique minimizes risk and allows for more controlled adjustments,” adds Clark. 

There are plenty of curly haircuts out there, but Clark wants you to steer clear of choosing one-length or blunt cuts at your appointment. “This cut can create a heavy, unmanageable shape that doesn’t flatter most curl patterns,” he says. “You want to avoid cutting curls with a straight-across line. Instead, stylists should use the point-cutting technique (aka snipping vertically) to create softness and texture.” 

OK, one-length and blunt bobs are out. So, what should you request then? A layered bob, lob (long bob) and shags. They are the most popular curly haircuts right now. According to Clark, these layered looks can add volume and shape to your curls. “Layers can reduce bulk and add shape, which allows curls to bounce and move freely. The layers should be graduated to maintain the natural curl shape,” he says. A bob or lob can frame the face and enhance your texture, whereas a shag can add texture and layers for a voluminous ‘do. If you’re unsure which one complements your curls, a stylist will walk you through your options based on your length, hair type and texture. 

The experts recommend getting trims every six to 12 weeks to maintain the shape and health of your hair. It starts with building a consistent schedule with your stylist, which I found it’s super helpful when deciding on the next time I need to remove split ends, stick to my unique shape or maintain my curly fringe. 

One more thing before you go, always always communicate with your stylist. If you have a look in mind, bring in a reference photo. If you think they’re a little too scissor happy, speak up. A curly haircut should be a stress-free experience similar to those with straighter locks. So, what are you waiting for? Go book your new cut already!